From Forbidden to Fierce: The History of Lipstick
WPI Beauty's History of Lipstick
Color swept across lips has never just been about beauty. Each stroke tells a story, sometimes whispered and sometimes shouted, across the centuries. As makeup artists at WarPaint International Beauty Agency (often celebrated as wpi beauty among industry insiders), we are endlessly fascinated by how a single product from the world of cosmetics can ignite controversy, spark confidence, and reflect the tides of culture as vividly as pigment on a brush.
Lipstick’s long journey from forbidden fruit to runway staple winds through ancient rituals, royal courts, religious condemnation, and modern movements for selfhood. The history of lipstick is as rich as it is enduring—in fact, it mirrors the broader narrative of cosmetic evolution, with every swipe of color echoing the innovations and challenges of its time. The past and present entwine on every lip, making it anything but mere color.
From Ancient Artistry to the Roots of Modern Glamour
Long before starlets and social media influencers, traces of lipstick appeared in the cradle of civilization. The earliest archaeologists point to Mesopotamia, around 5,000 years ago, where both women and men ground precious stones and minerals to create shimmering powders and salves for lips—not simply for aesthetics, but as a badge of status and ritual protection. Egyptians followed suit, fusing crushed carmine beetles with fats for a rich crimson dye. Cleopatra herself was known to flaunt bold, colored lips, her aesthetic choices underlining power, seduction, and an assertion of identity against the backdrop of empire. These early beauty rituals not only highlighted societal values but also laid the foundation for what would become a long tradition in cosmetics.
In India, cosmetic coloring dates to the Vedic period, where women used alata — a red dye drawn from lac resin — not only on their lips but their hands and feet for ceremonial purposes. Traditions like these tell a far richer story than mere ornamentation as they integrated makeup trends with spirituality and identity. They reflect society’s perceptions of beauty, power, and even divinity.
Lip Color in Religious and Political Crosshairs
Despite its ancient prestige, lipstick’s fortunes wavered as religious doctrines rose in influence across Europe and elsewhere. By the Middle Ages, the act of painting one’s lips fell into suspicion. In 16th-century England, Queen Elizabeth I’s love for impossibly vivid lipstick (her “mask of youth,” as chronicled in royal court records) became infamous. While she popularized bold color among courtiers, religious leaders of the period railed against makeup as deception — some even declaring lipstick the “mark of the Devil” or “Satan’s tool.”
Throughout Puritan society in 17th-century England and colonial America, lipstick-wearers faced outright condemnation. One 177 law in England proposed that women found luring men into marriage using “cosmetic means” could be tried for witchcraft. Red lips were falsely equated with moral looseness and witchcraft, further establishing the taboo and linking lipstick with rebellion, sexuality, and power.
Resilience, Rebellion, and the Rise of Modern Lipstick
Despite attempts to suppress lipstick, its allure only grew. The Victorian era still saw lipstick applied—though discreetly, behind closed doors, with homemade recipes of beeswax, carmine, and castor oil. An air of secrecy added to its mystique.
As the 20th century dawned, a shift began. The suffragettes in the West boldly adopted red lipstick during rallies, claiming the color as a symbol of women’s liberation and political strength. Guerlain and other brands started offering lipstick in metal tubes, making application less messy and more portable. Max Factor’s 1915 invention of the first commercially successful lipstick tube brought vibrant color into mainstream culture, marking a turning point in both makeup trends and cosmetic evolution.
A quick look at this era’s evolution:
Era
Ancient Mesopotamia
Medieval Europe
Victorian England
Early 1900s
WWII
Postwar to Present
Perception of Lipstick
Status, ritual, protection
Deception, sin, superstition
Scandal, secrecy
Freedom, feminism, power
Patriotism, resilience
Fashion, self-expression
Key Figures/Events
Mesopotamian nobles, Egyptian royalty
Religious leaders, Queen Elizabeth I
Society matriarchs, actresses
Suffragettes, Max Factor, Gueriain
Allied propaganda, Rosie the Riveter
Hollywood icons, cosmetic firms
World War II added another dimension. As many men left for war, women flooded the workforce. Lipstick, especially patriotic reds, became a rallying cry for morale and unity. Even the US government recognized its power, granting cosmetics priority status for manufacturing supplies. Wartime posters encouraged women to “keep up appearances”—all part of the psychological strategy to display national resilience.
Lipstick as a Symbol of Identity and Revolution
The meaning of painted lips has constantly adapted to social change and resistance. In India, lipstick and other cosmetics remained entwined with cultural meaning, sometimes demure, sometimes defiant. Post-Partition, urban Indian women increasingly redefined beauty standards, blending Western influences with ancient tradition. The act of wearing red lipstick—especially in conservative contexts—has grown into a symbol of autonomy.
“Lipstick Under My Burkha,” a 2016 Indian film, sparked headlines, controversy, and conversation. The film used the symbol of forbidden lipstick to highlight women’s struggles for sexual autonomy and voice in a patriarchal society. Its influence stretched far beyond the screen: lipstick became an accessory to protest and defiance for millions, uniting diverse women around shared stories of silencing and newfound empowerment.
Globally, lipstick continues to signal protest. During the punk movement of the 197s, bold, untraditional colors flickered defiantly on the mouths of both men and women. Today, lipstick crosses gender, cultural, and generational lines — with social media turbocharging makeup trends that celebrate individuality and transformative beauty rituals alike.
The lipstick effect is the hypothesis that when facing an economic crisis, consumers will be more willing to buy less costly luxury goods.
~ Wikidpedia
Lipstick’s Emotional Economy: Recession and Resilience
There’s an economy to emotion, and lipstick sits right at its intersection. Multiple economic studies — including professor Juliet Schor’s research at Boston College — have demonstrated that lipstick sales often spike during financial downturns. Dubbed the “Lipstick Index,” this trend describes how people turn to small luxuries during uncertainty. When large expenditures waver, lipstick provides an immediate boost in mood, confidence, and control for a modest investment. This phenomenon highlights how even in tough times, the allure of well-crafted pigments and carefully formulated cosmetics can work wonders for one's spirits.
Psychologists believe that, for many, applying lipstick isn’t simply about appearance. It’s an act of reclaiming agency, asserting self-worth, and signaling hope even in adversity. At WarPaint International Beauty Agency, days like these remind us that every application—whether using vibrant pigments or delicate tints—is a step in one's personal journey, intertwining the art of history with modern makeup trends.
Modern Milestones and Lipstick Culture
As lipstick gained prestige, a dedicated day emerged for its celebration. National Lipstick Day, observed annually on July 29th in the United States and now echoed across the globe, began thanks in large part to beauty entrepreneur Huda Kattan. Created to honor the history of lipstick and its impact on modern cosmetics, the day encourages people to share favorite colors, experiment with new shades, and embrace the artistry of makeup. Major brands release exclusive collections, and media campaigns highlight stories of transformation and connection.
At WarPaint International Beauty Agency, we see how makeup artistry is about so much more than outward polish. The act of applying lipstick is both an ancient tradition and a modern revolution. Every client brings unique histories—and hopes—to our chairs, fulfilling centuries-old beauty rituals in a context that still resonates with the spirit of rebellion and empowerment.
The Art and Science of Lipstick Application
The beauty of lipstick today is found in infinite shades and textures, but also in the technique with which it’s applied. Professional makeup artists rely on a toolkit of time-honored steps:
Starting with hydrated lips for uniform color.
Using primer to prevent feathering.
Layering pigment for depth and shape.
Blending and lining for a fuller, precise look.
Matching shades to mood, lighting, or statement.
Selecting the right formula—matte, gloss, stain, satin—now offers artistry with intention. Cruelty-free, vegan, and long-wear products provide choices that reflect deeply held values in addition to personal style.
A Global Love Affair
Lipstick’s story unfolds in every culture with its own twist. In parts of Africa, lipstick rituals remain tied to identity and rites of passage. In East Asia, unique color traditions and leaping innovation drive the trends, with Korean beauty introducing tints and gradations cherished worldwide. Each application, from the understated to the dramatic, traces lineage to thousands before—ancestors, rebels, icons, and everyday artists alike.
Why Lips Still Matter
Navigating the world as makeup artists, we see how lipstick can empower, unite, and redefine what beauty means for individuals and communities. The conversation around lipstick is not just about what is fashionable, but about what feels right, bold, and true. Whether one is following the latest makeup trends or honoring ancient beauty rituals, lipstick remains a testament to both personal expression and our shared cultural heritage.
The act of wearing lipstick is equal parts declaration and delight. It can be intimate or a public statement, a whisper or a war cry.
Book Professional Makeup Artists at WarPaint International Beauty Agency
For us at WarPaint International Beauty Agency, every shade and every face carry the living legacy of lipstick—tales of resistance, self-creation, and the magic of transformation. Just one swipe, enriched with meticulously chosen pigments and the spirit of centuries-old beauty rituals, and you’re painting with all of history.
Whether you're getting married, stepping on stage, having professional images taken or going out for the night, WPI Beauty is your go-to Beauty Agency for on-site makeup applications. Lipstick is just the beginning.
