by WPI Founder, Jessica Mae
Are you familiar with permanent makeup? As someone who has had a permanent makeup procedure done by Susan Grothe of Lasting Impression in Minnetonka, I am excited to introduce her to you. Susan specializes in a very unique niche of skincare that is increasingly more popular these days. Her areas of expertise fall into these licensure categories:
Microblading and Powder/Ombre Brows
Permanent Eyeliner—all styles
Lip Color/Blush
Paramedical Tattoo
Scar Camouflage
3D Areola Tattoo
Anti-aging skin needling
“Permanent eyeliner is a highly specialized procedure that absolutely requires hands-on training experience, as it is one of the more difficult areas to tattoo.”
Permanent Makeup Services: The Interview
I interviewed her so she could answer some of the most common questions (and fears) asked by women about these services.
What type of credentials or training should someone look for when hiring a permanent makeup artist?
Any permanent makeup artist is required to be licensed by the State they practice in and should have experience. However, many States do not require hands-on training or Apprentice training. Minnesota does require a full Apprentice and has more stringent requirements and laws governing the practice. An artist from Minnesota would have to complete 200 hours (4-5 months) of hands-on, supervised training before being licensed. If you live in a state that doesn’t have this type of requirement, the artist may be practicing on your skin! Many of the “horror stories” you find on the internet are the result of an artist with little skill or training. Assuming the artist you are considering has proper training, they also need to have experience and skill in the area you are seeking treatment.
For instance, if you have alopecia (hair loss) or rosacea the artist you choose should have worked on clients with alopecia or rosacea. If you are older (say beyond 40 or 50), the artist you choose should have experience with mature skin—it takes advanced skill to work on mature skin to be successful and not cause damage. If you are considering eyeliner, the artist should have extra training in this area, as eyeliner mistakes often can’t be corrected. All artists should be able to show you examples of their actual work - not just pictures of the type of brow/eyeliner you are seeking, but before/after photos of actual work they have done. Ask for examples of their work and ask, directly, if this is their work. If they can’t (or won’t) share before/after photos, run as fast as you can!
What is the difference between micro-blading and powder brow? Does one last longer than the other?
Both of these are Cosmetic tattoo techniques but done with different equipment. Microblading is done using a very small, scalpel-like knife to create tiny cuts where the pigment is deposited. In my opinion, retention can be much less for Microblading than other techniques, which means it may fade and require touch up sooner. Microblading typically lasts about 18 months. A Powder brow is done using a hand-held tattoo machine specifically designed for cosmetic tattoo. A disposable cartridge that contains very small needle(s) is used with the machine to puncture the skin to deposit the pigment. This technique has a lot of flexibility in terms of intensity and design: softer shading can be created which looks like makeup, hence the name “Powder brow”.
Machine brows often last 2 ½ - 3 years before fading. It is important to realize that ALL permanent makeup fades over time and you may choose to “top up” the color after a few years. Permanent makeup is designed to fade because your face and skin change over time—so it is important to find an artist you can work with overtime to avoid issues with color and over-saturation.
Powder Brow.
Artistry by Susan Grothe, Lasting Impression Permanent Makeup.
We have seen some botched permanent eyeliner work. What techniques or experience are needed to do eyeliner? What can cause eyeliner to migrate?
Permanent eyeliner is a highly specialized procedure that absolutely requires hands-on training experience, as it is one of the more difficult areas to tattoo. The eyelid is the thinnest skin on the body and very delicate. Improper techniques can cause problems with healing and also impact eye health. Working on the eye requires solid training in eye physiology, numbing protocol, needle choice, machine techniques, and pigments. Not all permanent makeup artists pursue or invest in this level of training.
Migration is the pooling of the pigment from the design area to an undesirable spot, often the outer corner of the eye or by the tear duct. It can be caused by improper technique, placing the pigment too close to either the inner/outer eye corner, or using the wrong pigment. Carbon black is a type of pigment used for an eyeliner that only very experienced artists should use to prevent any pigment migration.
Permanent Eyeliner with wing.
Artistry by Susan Grothe, Lasting Impression Permanent Makeup.
What are the different techniques that can be done on the lips?
Lip tattoo can boost overall lip color and also re-establish the vermillion border (outer edge) of lips, both of which tend to fade as we age. The lip border can be made to look more even and symmetrical. I’ve done a number of clients with facial scars that have compromised lip border and we have created a symmetrical look by redesigning the vermillion border and using techniques to reduce the appearance of the scar. There are a variety of lip tattoo techniques from soft shading to full lip color. Many have creative names but are all essential techniques to implant pigment into the lip skin.
Permanent lip color.
Artistry by Susan Grothe, Lasting Impression Permanent Makeup.
It is important to know that lip color will fade considerably from the initial appointment – usually, about 80%. The color that remains is often a softer, more natural look than lipstick. To get a darker pigment color to retain on lips, several treatments are usually necessary.
What can be expected during the healing process and how often should someone expect to need a touch-up?
All Cosmetic tattoo is a two-step process. An initial procedure, followed by a touch up to perfect both color and design which is scheduled 4-8 weeks later. It takes four weeks for any Cosmetic tattoo to be fully healed.
Week 1 : initial healing, and the time when you will typically not get the area wet or touch it
Week 2 : peeling/slight scabbing
Week 3 : color is much lighter
Week 4 : color “blooms” back
After healing, a second procedure is done to perfect both the color and design. Some areas may not have taken pigment as well and color may have healed warmer/cooler than desired. These are the finishing touches a permanent makeup artist does during the touch-up. Further touch-ups depend upon the technique and what service you have done: Microblading lasts on average 18 months, other Brow techniques 2-3 years; Eyeliner should last 3-5 years; Lip color can last up to 3 years.
Anything else we should know?
Your skin is very unique and everyone will have different results because of their skin chemistry, body healing ability, and response to tattoos. Some people will have great results, some people may not. This is due to a variety of factors including how well aftercare is followed, exposure to sun/water, skin condition, and skin type. Because of this complexity, it is very important to choose an artist with solid training, experience, knowledge of pigments, and understanding of color theory. A skilled artist will increase the likelihood you will get optimal results.
I’ve pursued a great deal of training in Cosmetic tattoo and then gone further to be certified in Paramedical tattoo (scar reduction/camouflage, acne scar reduction, stretch marks, age spots, deep wrinkles, 3D Areola micro-pigmentation). I feel a strong knowledge base gives me the ability to create the optimal results my clients are seeking. I also share this knowledge to help educate clients, enabling them to make well-informed decisions on the procedures they pursue.
Microblading, Permanent Liner : Eye shadow technique, Ombre Brows.
Artistry by Susan Grothe, Lasting Impression Permanent Makeup.